1. Post #1161
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts
    So I found out about the fact that my filament stepper was slipping but making no noise weird. I kinda sorted this out by making a insert for my spool holder so the reels can move very easily now. The printer works perfectly fine on the first layer, the print sticks down perfectly and the width of the extruded material is nice and wide but not translucent; exactly what I wanted. The issues come the moment I get to the second layer now. After the first layer everything goes tits up; it extrudes slower yet the head moves faster as told to by slic3r. If I give the filament stepper a hand by pushing the filament in a bit more it comes out just fine, so its not a back pressure related issue. I even made my PTFE tubes shorter in the hopes of easing the load on the filament stepper. I'm not too familiar with marlin firmware due to the only other printer I had was running closed source firmware and was all calibrated via the LCD Display and button controls. I've tried increasing the EvelMax and then increasing the rate but nothing seems to happen. I've increased the firmware limit of 45 to 60 and still get no change.

    I've changed slic3rs extrusion mult, it helped but is still not enough to keep up with the default speed of this printer. The head is plenty close to the bed.

    Edit: DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT was what I was looking for, been uping the E side of it and still having issues. I think its down to the extruder drive gear not being man enough to keep hold of the filament

    Edit 2 "A 3DPrinter Boogaloo": So been having a look at the extruder mounts, took the springs and stretched them a bit so they would apply just a bit more force; hey fukin' presto it now prints way better. Still having some missed layer parts. But its good enough on larger prints to make a better extruder now.



    Edit 3:
    Had retraction disabled, not enough cooling. Making a fan shroud now.

  2. Post #1162
    Gold Member
    scratch (nl)'s Avatar
    January 2010
    10,705 Posts
    I've been trying to get a good first layer, and finally managed to get the most annoying shits ever to stick: circles. I print outer perimeters first, so it results in the printer doing circles without anything around them, often causing them to let lose and fuck the whole print.

    Still the first layer is not perfect, and that's where I ask you guys for help

    here's the top side



    and here's the bottom


    (now I don't know, but to me it looks as if the infill paths are too squished into eachother)

    What is messing up the infill? too high flowrate? too wide an extrusion? nozzle too close to printbed?

    Edited:

    I increased the distance between nozzle and printbed by a tiny bit and reprinted it



    the difference is huge , the brim was also removeable, wheras the old one was firmly stuck to the model. I do still have bumps wherever the lines change direction though.

    My printbed is convex though, so printing further from the centre also increases the distance, so right now it becomes kinda tricky when printing far from the centre.

  3. Post #1163
    I survived Camp FP 2010
    metallics's Avatar
    September 2005
    5,650 Posts
    Infill looks ok to me on the first one? If anything not quite smushed up enough, but only by a fraction. Possibly considering raising your extruder temp by a degree or so?

  4. Post #1164
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts

    A Mini Halo 3 Magnum
    Cleaned up the model and it printed with minimal warping.

    Next up is a full size AR, gonna paint it also.

    Edited:


    My printbed is convex though, so printing further from the centre also increases the distance, so right now it becomes kinda tricky when printing far from the centre.
    Have a look into "AutoLeveling", its actually just supplying offsets to the firmware and will compensate for any flex in your print surface.

    I'd recommend an inductive sensor for this.
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 10 Chrome United Kingdom Show Events Winner Winner x 1 (list)

  5. Post #1165
    Gold Member
    waylander's Avatar
    February 2010
    3,805 Posts
    i think a bltouch or clone is the best system for autoleveling especially if you print on glass. i have one of the little green sensors but its a pain in the ass so i dont have it installed atm

  6. Post #1166
    ScriptKitt3h's Avatar
    November 2014
    1,289 Posts
    I've printed a couple things so far, namely this Wingman revolver prop from Titanfall:

    As well as a few smaller test prints/trinkets (I had some pictures, but my smartphone decided to up and brick itself on me this week, making them inaccessible).

    Thinking about doing some more full-scale props in the future.
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 8.1 Chrome United States Show Events Winner Winner x 2 (list)

  7. Post #1167
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts

    Testing in PLA before printing in max scale on grey ABS.
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 10 Chrome United Kingdom Show Events Winner Winner x 3 (list)

  8. Post #1168
    Gold Member
    RoboChimp's Avatar
    October 2011
    5,038 Posts
    Like shadowboy303 said they are a lot harder to setup properly and even if you bought a prebuilt one it's not going to stay calibrated one the delivery guys are done throwing it around. You seem concerned about build volume most Cartesian printers are 200x200x200 which isn't really any smaller but for half the price of the one you linked to you can get a 200x280 and expanding the z is easy with an aluminium extrusion desing
    It's got to do with availability, I can't seem to find a cheap cartesian printer for $499 AUD from an aussie retailer with decent build size.
    https://www.jaycar.com.au/duinotech-...inter/p/TL4076

  9. Post #1169
    Gold Member
    waylander's Avatar
    February 2010
    3,805 Posts
    just get one from ali or banggood. this is what i have its pretty good and only $320 aud for the base version plus they will declare the value at whatever you need to avoid import duty

  10. Post #1170
    Gold Member
    waylander's Avatar
    February 2010
    3,805 Posts
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viEU7fLrVRI&t=6s
    for 700 i wouldnt mind the pain of a delta for 340x500

  11. Post #1171
    Gold Member
    S31-Syntax's Avatar
    October 2007
    10,513 Posts
    Is it friday yet

    is it friday yet

    is it friday yet
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 7 Chrome United States Show Events Friendly Friendly x 1 (list)

  12. Post #1172
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts

    Got 3D Printed stuff all over the frickin' house now.
    Assembled mini magnum, Oculus Touch rifle stock and my new spool holders.
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 10 Chrome United Kingdom Show Events Winner Winner x 1 (list)

  13. Post #1173
    Gold Member
    DOG-GY's Avatar
    June 2009
    14,664 Posts
    Any suggestions on painting prints? I just got this done through Shapeways for my gal's bday / our 2 year.

    It'll be pastel colors. I'd also want to probably have some kinda glossy finish to help protect it and make it pop.
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 10 Chrome United States Show Events Friendly Friendly x 1Artistic Artistic x 1 (list)

  14. Post #1174
    Gold Member
    S31-Syntax's Avatar
    October 2007
    10,513 Posts
    What kind of material is that? That, to me at least, would be the first step in deciding how to paint it.
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 7 Chrome United States Show Events Agree Agree x 1 (list)

  15. Post #1175
    Gold Member
    DOG-GY's Avatar
    June 2009
    14,664 Posts
    Good point! It's their (unpolished) white strong and flexible plastic.

  16. Post #1176
    Gold Member
    Van-man's Avatar
    August 2009
    19,169 Posts
    Good point! It's their (unpolished) white strong and flexible plastic.
    That doesn't specify the plastic type (ABS, PLA, Nylon, etc etc etc) which is needed to recommend paints/primer

  17. Post #1177
    Gold Member
    DOG-GY's Avatar
    June 2009
    14,664 Posts
    Ah my bad. It's nylon powder.

    Edited:

    Actually when looking up the type of powder I found a forum post linking back to a tutorial on Shapeways:
    https://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/...ng3dprintedsls

    Does this all check out?

  18. Post #1178
    Gold Member
    waylander's Avatar
    February 2010
    3,805 Posts
    Any suggestions on painting prints? I just got this done through Shapeways for my gal's bday / our 2 year.

    It'll be pastel colors. I'd also want to probably have some kinda glossy finish to help protect it and make it pop.
    thats an sls print?

  19. Post #1179
    Gold Member
    DOG-GY's Avatar
    June 2009
    14,664 Posts
    yup yup

  20. Post #1180
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts
    So I finally just finished setting up a inductive sensor, spent 3 days due to the first sensor being DOA and a whole BATCH of dead resistors. Fml.

    But my god, print accuracy has gone though the frickin' roof. I no longer have worries about getting too close to the bed, auto stops when the sensor is triggered.

    Next step is to start porting all my settings over to the latest release of marlin. Still using a version from late 2015.


    Can anyone recommend some good brands? I've been using Hatchbox so far and while its cheap it seems to have a lot of air bubbles in the filament. I also want some more subtle coloured PLA.

    Edit: Here is the result of the auto-levelling, able to print really awkward overhangs now. 20mm diameter.


  21. Post #1181
    Gold Member
    DOG-GY's Avatar
    June 2009
    14,664 Posts
    So I did some research and found that primer is probably unnecessary due to it being an SLS print. However I'm gonna do it anyways as I don't want my paints seeping into the surface, and found a Rust Oleum spray primer that should do the trick. My plan is to start with that, do some light sanding to smooth out a couple spots (maybe do this first?), then jump into acrylics and finish off with (perhaps both glossy and matte for different areas) varnish.

    Does all this sound solid to those of you who've done these kinds of projects before?

  22. Post #1182
    Gold Member
    ramirez!'s Avatar
    July 2010
    1,241 Posts
    So I did some research and found that primer is probably unnecessary due to it being an SLS print. However I'm gonna do it anyways as I don't want my paints seeping into the surface, and found a Rust Oleum spray primer that should do the trick. My plan is to start with that, do some light sanding to smooth out a couple spots (maybe do this first?), then jump into acrylics and finish off with (perhaps both glossy and matte for different areas) varnish.

    Does all this sound solid to those of you who've done these kinds of projects before?
    Currently in the middle of painting some parts I did, but my material is PLA. Acrylic shot through an air brush works great, but since your material is nylon you may need to do some extra digging - nylon is pretty slippery and paint doesn't stick well to it all the time.
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 7 Firefox United States Show Events Friendly Friendly x 1 (list)

  23. Post #1183
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts
    Finished porting settings over to the newer version of marlin. 1.0.2-2

    "z_min" won't report at all on m119, any ideas? (Config below, default delta style) I've likely missed a comment or something.



    Code:
    // Deltas never have min endstops
    #define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS
    Edit: Found that, still not getting anywhere.

    Edit: found the bastard.

    Code:
    //#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
    //#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
    #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
    #define USE_XMAX_PLUG
    #define USE_YMAX_PLUG
    #define USE_ZMAX_PLUG

  24. Post #1184
    Gold Member
    waylander's Avatar
    February 2010
    3,805 Posts
    can anyone slice the shadow (named push) in this pack? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1083817/ s3d wont slice it properly but the others like the krambit are ok, i want to print the smallest one first to see how the blade comes out

  25. Post #1185
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts
    can anyone slice the shadow (named push) in this pack? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1083817/ s3d wont slice it properly but the others like the krambit are ok, i want to print the smallest one first to see how the blade comes out
    All seem to slice just fine in Slic3r at 0.1mm layer height.

  26. Post #1186
    I have an old 3d printer that has a fried arduino board, I was thinking of re-making the frame of it in aluminum and expanding the work area, anyone know of a good way to start doing that?

    This is the printer kit that I bought: http://q3dprinter.com/twoup.htm

    It doesn't have much use and everything worked fine until the board shorted out.

  27. Post #1187
    TheHANGOVER's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,227 Posts
    Is it friday yet

    is it friday yet

    is it friday yet
    Think you can tell me how well that printer works when you get it? been looking at the same one.

  28. Post #1188
    Gold Member
    S31-Syntax's Avatar
    October 2007
    10,513 Posts
    Think you can tell me how well that printer works when you get it? been looking at the same one.
    Things I have learned in ~4 days with the MP Select Mini
    ABS is satan's piss. Fuck that whole chemical formula. Don't even try printing ABS.
    I'm giving PETG a try next change I get. Sampler thing or something.
    It does indeed work out of the box with no calibration.
    however the prints have little pimples all over em where the outer layer as its extruding kinda pops out the sides, and it looks kinda bad.

    Some slicer tweaks will make that thing print like a dream though.

    First and foremost, use these for layer thickness.
    Layer Height (mm)
    0.04375 (results may vary)*
    0.0875
    0.13125
    0.175
    0.21875
    0.2625
    0.30625
    I'll update this when I get home to add the rest of the slicer tweaks.

    TL:DR, Its a fantastic little printer and I've loved every minute of learning about it.
    Get it off Jet.com, use coupons, I paid $178.

    Edited:

    I have an old 3d printer that has a fried arduino board, I was thinking of re-making the frame of it in aluminum and expanding the work area, anyone know of a good way to start doing that?

    This is the printer kit that I bought: http://q3dprinter.com/twoup.htm

    It doesn't have much use and everything worked fine until the board shorted out.
    The design looks -somewhat- similar to a mendlemax or a prusa. Could start there.

    Alternatively you could salvage every working part, steppers, hot-end, etc, and just redesign it around already established scalable printer designs.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/explore/p...ng/3d-printers

  29. Post #1189
    MexicanR's Avatar
    December 2015
    322 Posts
    I have recently purchased an Anet a8, and was wondering if anyone here owns one or has some experience with them? If so, could I get some slicer setting recommendations? I use slic3r and simplify 3D, depending on the print. If I remember correctly it's a Prusa i3 clone but the print settings for the two seem to be different.

    Edit: Not sure if the post below was directed towards me, but I forgot to mention I print PLA

  30. Post #1190
    Gold Member
    waylander's Avatar
    February 2010
    3,805 Posts
    you need an enclosure for abs, its pretty easy to make one for low cost using ikea lack table/s and a bit of perspex

  31. Post #1191
    TheHANGOVER's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,227 Posts
    Things I have learned in ~4 days with the MP Select Mini
    ABS is satan's piss. Fuck that whole chemical formula. Don't even try printing ABS.
    I'm giving PETG a try next change I get. Sampler thing or something.
    It does indeed work out of the box with no calibration.
    however the prints have little pimples all over em where the outer layer as its extruding kinda pops out the sides, and it looks kinda bad.

    Some slicer tweaks will make that thing print like a dream though.

    First and foremost, use these for layer thickness.

    I'll update this when I get home to add the rest of the slicer tweaks.

    TL:DR, Its a fantastic little printer and I've loved every minute of learning about it.
    Get it off Jet.com, use coupons, I paid $178.
    Thanks for the info man. IT looks great for a sub $200 printer. I'm torn between this and a lathe so it might be awhile before i pick it up.

  32. Post #1192
    Gold Member
    paindoc's Avatar
    March 2009
    8,369 Posts
    I took my 3D printer into work under the guise of getting it fixed - and it did, to a point. New smoothieboard, fancy new cyclops hot end (single nozzle, dual filament-feed), general tune-up by me and our other printer gurus, and so on. I completed the research for the contract I was working on with it, and then went back to work on my software dev stuff.

    I go back into our lab last week and its been used for spare parts. Its like a bloody 3D printer chop-shop back there!

    So I decide to ask to use our resin printer to print something since mine is down, but one of our line managers sees me preparing a print and then tries to pass a company policy that we can't use company printers for personal prints. My boss, being the head of the additive manufacturing division here, pretty quickly shut that down, but he still managed to convinced upper management that we shouldn't use the resin printer because resin is expensive

    I was going to make a ship from Star Citizen, and resin was the only way to do it :c

    Edited:

    also wish I could get a photo of it, but I'm not sure if its covered under NDA (I can mention it but photos are always iffy because of ITAR stuff in our lab space), but we have a printer literally the size of a car. It uses parts from an oven to heat the build volume, and has support for up to 8 extruders. it looks more like a fancy enclosed CNC machine than a 3D printer, tbh
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 10 Edge United States Show Events Winner Winner x 1 (list)

  33. Post #1193
    Gold Member
    S31-Syntax's Avatar
    October 2007
    10,513 Posts
    I took my 3D printer into work under the guise of getting it fixed - and it did, to a point. New smoothieboard, fancy new cyclops hot end (single nozzle, dual filament-feed), general tune-up by me and our other printer gurus, and so on. I completed the research for the contract I was working on with it, and then went back to work on my software dev stuff.

    I go back into our lab last week and its been used for spare parts. Its like a bloody 3D printer chop-shop back there!

    So I decide to ask to use our resin printer to print something since mine is down, but one of our line managers sees me preparing a print and then tries to pass a company policy that we can't use company printers for personal prints. My boss, being the head of the additive manufacturing division here, pretty quickly shut that down, but he still managed to convinced upper management that we shouldn't use the resin printer because resin is expensive

    I was going to make a ship from Star Citizen, and resin was the only way to do it :c

    Edited:

    also wish I could get a photo of it, but I'm not sure if its covered under NDA (I can mention it but photos are always iffy because of ITAR stuff in our lab space), but we have a printer literally the size of a car. It uses parts from an oven to heat the build volume, and has support for up to 8 extruders. it looks more like a fancy enclosed CNC machine than a 3D printer, tbh
    Oh ham please ask if you can. Or at least get a model number to google.

  34. Post #1194
    Gold Member
    ramirez!'s Avatar
    July 2010
    1,241 Posts
    however the prints have little pimples all over em where the outer layer as its extruding kinda pops out the sides, and it looks kinda bad.
    Check out your slicing software to see if it supports coasting, and tinker with your retraction. I've always wondered why slicing software doesn't prefer interior corners for perimeter adjustments, but those two settings can get me preeetty smooth prints.

  35. Post #1195
    Gold Member
    paindoc's Avatar
    March 2009
    8,369 Posts
    Oh ham please ask if you can. Or at least get a model number to google.
    It was built entirely in-house, designed from scratch. Same guy has designed numerous printers for a range of the customers we serve in our R&D work.

    I'll see if I can get a photo, though.
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 10 Edge United States Show Events Winner Winner x 2 (list)

  36. Post #1196
    Gold Member
    S31-Syntax's Avatar
    October 2007
    10,513 Posts
    Check out your slicing software to see if it supports coasting, and tinker with your retraction. I've always wondered why slicing software doesn't prefer interior corners for perimeter adjustments, but those two settings can get me preeetty smooth prints.
    I'm not at home atm so I can't see what exactly I changed, but when I dorked with the settings last night the change was literally night and day. The pimpling was reduced to only a small area on the backside where it picks up and moves over to a teensy tiny area to do a small perimeter and then back.

    I'm going to upgrade the fan shroud next and throw one of my 40mm enterprise server screamers on it to see how much better it cools the filament.

  37. Post #1197
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts
    Ehhh pheck. had to many issues with the latest stable release of marlin. Moved to RC8.


    Much better, extrusion problems also seem to be solved even with the same values as last time. Weird. Must have been some changes in how steps are dealt with.

  38. Post #1198
    Gold Member
    paindoc's Avatar
    March 2009
    8,369 Posts
    Ehhh pheck. had to many issues with the latest stable release of marlin. Moved to RC8.


    Much better, extrusion problems also seem to be solved even with the same values as last time. Weird. Must have been some changes in how steps are dealt with.
    So my main job at work is writing a slicer from the ground up, and one of the things that has been driving me crazy is some of the minute but crucial differences in between firmwares. It scares me too, because I'm terrified that I'll forget to think of this at some point and cause an unsafe or damaging move or something.

    It has continued to validate my dislike of makerware though. Its the only firmware that doesn't let you set a cooling fan's speed, its either on or its off. They also have a weird way of handling preheat commands.

    Edited:

    When it comes to writing 'exceptions' for gcode writing, marlin has required the fewest of them. I don't think I've even had to write one yet, it's easily the easiest firmware to deal with.

    Repetier is cool because of things like mixing extruder support, though. it reminds me of marlin with a couple extra features. Mixing extruders hurt my head, even though my research over the summer was all about them :v
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply Windows 10 Edge United States Show Events Agree Agree x 1 (list)

  39. Post #1199
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts
    Here is a plant pot I designed for my mum: [Thingiverse]



    I made about 9 of them so far, found them handy for holding my printers screws in different size pots so I did not get things mixed up. Fusion 360 feels like solidworks but less daunting.

    Edit: so during my troubles with auto leveling/tramming (still having issues :/), excel makes a great way of visualising the output of G29!



    The results are wildly wrong for some reason, they seem exaggerated on the Z axis. And then there is that wild bump near the right side. You can actually watch the print head follow that in reality also.

  40. Post #1200
    shadowboy303's Avatar
    August 2009
    1,771 Posts



    Printed at 0.3mm layer height with 0% support.