1. Post #1
    I finally got my butt in gear and I am updating my rig. The name of my build is dynamic. I am just throwing out this name if and when I think of a better one for my system.
    I originally have the 1200 but, it just isn't working out for my watercooling rig so I just ordered some new stuff!
    Most of this stuff is from my other system, I am mainly just replacing my case, making the loop more efficient, using good cable management, and most importantly, showing a novice computer builder how to make a computer from the ground up with watercooling.

    New parts:
    Code:
    Products
    3 x	Yate Loon 120x20mm Medium Speed Thin Silent Case Fan - D12SM-12C - Sleeved (D12SM-12C)
    Cable No changes (stock, unsleeved)
    Sleeve Color Black
    Heatshrink Color Black	
    2 x	Primochill Polypropylene "Y" Fitting 1/2" - UV Colors (PC-F-Y12-UV)
    Fitting UV Color UV Brite Green	
    4 x	Danger Den G1/4 High Flow Fittings - 1/2" (G14-FITTING-1/2) 
    1 x	PPCS Advanced Slot Protector Kit - UV Green (SPK1-UVG) 	
    1 x	Cooler Master RC-932-KKN1-GP HAF-932 High Air Flow Steel Tower ATX Case (RC-932-KKN1-GP)
    Bay Insert No Bay Insert
    Power Supply (Stock) No Power Supply
    Floppy Drive No Floppy Drive
    Case Options Stock case
    Sleeve Color Black
    Heatshrink Color Black
    Bay Covers Drill 3 1/2 inch Bay for - 2 switches mounted
    Cold Cathode 12" Kit (Sleeved) No Cold Cathode Kit
    Extra 12" Cathode Tube (Sleeved) No Extra Tube
    Optical Drive Covers No Drive Covers
    Aluminum 3.5 No Transfer Bracket
    Anodized Thumbscrews Stock Silver Screws/Thumbscrews	
    8 x	PrimoFlex Tubing 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD - UV Green (PRIMOFLEX1234-UVG) 
    1 gallon of single distilled water
    Petra'sTech PT_Nuke Concentrated Biocide (10mL) (with distilled water, this is a much more clean and effective way of releasing heat.
    Active Ingredient: Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate 4.1%
    And I already have:
    Code:
    LG Black 22X (CAV) DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X (CAV) DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 22X DVD±R DVD Burner - OEM 
    Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM 
    Rosewill RM-1600L Black 5 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB Laser 1600 dpi Mouse - Retail 
    RAZER Goliathus Mouse Pad - Speed edition - Full Multi Language - Retail 
     ASUS P5E3 PREMIUM/WIFI-AP @n LGA 775 Intel X48 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail 
     HIS H487X2F2GP Radeon HD 4870 X2 2GB 512-bit (256-bit x 2) GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail 
     COOLMAX CUQ-1200B 1200W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply - Retail 
     Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 Yorkfield 2.83GHz 12MB L2 Cache LGA 775 95W Quad-Core Processor - Retail 
     AVerMedia AVerTVHD MCE A180 7 95522 96044 3 PCI Interface - Retail (crappy quality edition)
     G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBHZ - Retail 
    1 Tb hatachi
    150 GB drive
    80 GB drive
    And what I already have for water cooling:
    Code:
    Swiftech MCR-220 Radiator - Black
    Options: 	
    Barb:  	1/2" Swiftech Metal High Flow
    Swiftech MCR-320 Radiator - Black
    Options: 	
    Barb:  	1/2" Swiftech Metal High Flow
    Laing D5 2 Revision 2 -   D5-2       
    12 Volt DC Variable Flow
    Water Pump
    D-TEK FuZion v2 CPU Block
    High Flow 1/2"
    PC Tonic Advanced Cooling Fluid- UV Alien Green
    HI-Flow Hose Barb - 1/2" (G-1/4" Thread)
    Swiftech MCRES-MICRO™ Rev. 2 Reservoir
    Misc:
    Code:
    12in Dual Green Cold 
    Cathode Kit
    12in Dual UV Cold Cathode
    Kit
    Xoxide Wire Sleeving Kit
    (UV Green)
    I will be posting a step by step video instruction on how to build the computer from the ground up sans operating system installation. I will be providing limited pictures because they do not really help in showing how to build the system. I will however take pictures of the important parts that I could see needing more detail than the video can provide. I may add on to this build later IF I ever plan on wcing the gpu, mosfets and n/s bridges.

    Current system with added elbows for that slow ass GPM that everyone is looking for. This is the loop and case I will be scrapping.


    For the sake of flow, the setup will look like the right hand picture


    I ordered the parts yesterday and put them on USPS ground. I will start filming as soon as I can to try and keep the wait time short.


    Day 1:
    All the parts arrived today. As soon as I start taking apart the case, it starts raining....Just my luck. Dammn you washington!

    Hopefully I won't have to use my 'y's (the color is a little off :P)


  2. Post #2
    Are you going to overclock?
    Reply With Quote Edit / Delete Reply United States Show Events Dumb Dumb x 2 (list)

  3. Post #3
    Are you going to overclock?
    Yes! I forgot to mention that I will be trying to overclock to 4.5 ghz. Because my mosfets are passively cooled ATM, this is the limiting factor.

  4. Post #4
    Is your Q9550 C1 or E0?

  5. Post #5
    E0

  6. Post #6
    I wish you the best of luck.

  7. Post #7
    something stupid.
    Are you being sarcastic? I will take any constructive input from others in the highest regard.

  8. Post #8
    That post you quoted makes no sense.

  9. Post #9
    That post you quoted makes no sense.
    oops, copied the wrong one
    Yeah, I am researching more about E0 stepping. Something about lower voltages on E0 gives higher clock gives lower temps.

  10. Post #10

  11. Post #11
    E0 is colder.
    Thanks for your support.

  12. Post #12
    I stand by you in your time of need.

  13. Post #13
    Gold Member
    Biotoxsin's Avatar
    June 2008
    7,115 Posts
    What was the total cost of your cooling system?

  14. Post #14
    Gold Member
    Nightrazr's Avatar
    January 2007
    1,201 Posts
    Good watercooling runs you like 600 bucks.
    But by that I mean high quality tubing, heatsinks, fluid, radiators, fans, pump, other jazz.

  15. Post #15
    What was the total cost of your cooling system?
    Too much :P
    Somewhere around 250$ USD I would advise against watercooling if you are looking for raw cooling power and invest in TEC or hybrid TEC like the coolermaster v10 or phase change if you are really crazy.

    Edited:

    Good watercooling runs you like 600 bucks.
    But by that I mean high quality tubing, heatsinks, fluid, radiators, fans, pump, other jazz.
    For like a full setup yes. For only CPU mine was around 250-300$

  16. Post #16
    Gold Member
    Biotoxsin's Avatar
    June 2008
    7,115 Posts
    Huh, I've only done Submersion in oil, with a radiator and pump attached. I'm curious if you could just increase the number of radiators and pumps to get lower temperatures.

  17. Post #17
    Gold Member
    Nightrazr's Avatar
    January 2007
    1,201 Posts
    Sure you can, but it'll never go lower than the room temperature (the fluid and heatsinks I mean)
    Unless you use a TEC.

  18. Post #18
    Gold Member
    Biotoxsin's Avatar
    June 2008
    7,115 Posts
    -snip- for stupidity.

  19. Post #19
    Yeah, im talking to another guy on overclock.net about my flow. Trying to figure out if having double RADs is effective. I need to make sure at least that my pump can push fluid around that whole system.

  20. Post #20
    Gold Member
    Biotoxsin's Avatar
    June 2008
    7,115 Posts
    Sure you can, but it'll never go lower than the room temperature (the fluid and heatsinks I mean)
    Unless you use a TEC.
    Logically so, but I'm curious if it would be very difficult to reach that point, usually I'm about 10 degrees Celsius over full-load.

  21. Post #21
    Anyone ever used a Pelt?
    I know how it works but, I have never used one. What do you need to know?

  22. Post #22
    Gold Member
    Nightrazr's Avatar
    January 2007
    1,201 Posts
    Can't you use a push 'n' pull setup with 2 pumps then?

    Alright who the fuck rated me bawksy?

    Also, isn't a TEC the same thing as a Peltier plate?

  23. Post #23
    Can't you use a push 'n' pull setup with 2 pumps then?

    Alright who the fuck rated me bawksy?
    I would have to get another pump so no, not ATM unless you want to give me more money :P

    Also, isn't a TEC the same thing as a Peltier plate?
    yes.

  24. Post #24
    Gold Member
    Biotoxsin's Avatar
    June 2008
    7,115 Posts
    Can't you use a push 'n' pull setup with 2 pumps then?

    Alright who the fuck rated me bawksy?

    Also, isn't a TEC the same thing as a Peltier plate?
    Yeah, that's why I snipped. >_<

    I wasn't familiar with calling it a TEC.

    Edited:

    I know that with Peltier's condensation is a real problem.

  25. Post #25
    Yeah, that's why I snipped. >_<

    I wasn't familiar with calling it a TEC.

    Edited:

    I know that with Peltier's condensation is a real problem.
    Not if you build it properly. Using foam around the CPU and spraying anti-condensation on the mobo helps solve this problem. You really do have to know what you are doing though.

    Edited:

    BTW, this is the pump I have:
    http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3112
    ~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)

  26. Post #26
    Gold Member
    Biotoxsin's Avatar
    June 2008
    7,115 Posts
    Looks like a high-quality pump.

  27. Post #27
    Gold Member
    Nightrazr's Avatar
    January 2007
    1,201 Posts
    Swiftech is a respected brand in the watercooling business, their pumps are fine pieces of equipment.

  28. Post #28
    Wow. Performance-PC's inbox is full and I can't even send them a support ticket. I get a bounce back...

  29. Post #29
    thf
    Gold Member
    Dennab
    June 2009
    3,331 Posts
    E0 is colder.
    What is all this C1/E0 stuff? How to find out which one you have?

    Edited:

    Lol you got a 1200 and it dont work with your rig? wasted money lol

  30. Post #30
    Gold Member
    reapaninja's Avatar
    November 2008
    8,118 Posts
    why do people always quote fucking huge posts without snipping them down


  31. Post #31
    What is all this C1/E0 stuff? How to find out which one you have?

    Edited:



    Lol you got a 1200 and it dont work with your rig? wasted money lol
    Thanks for telling me I wasted money. That is like saying, you got in a car accident? Wasted money lol.

  32. Post #32
    JDK721v2's Avatar
    April 2009
    1,451 Posts
    What is all this C1/E0 stuff? How to find out which one you have?

    Edited:

    Lol you got a 1200 and it dont work with your rig? wasted money lol
    Get out.

  33. Post #33
    Gold Member

    November 2008
    10,934 Posts
    can I buy your 1200

  34. Post #34
    can I buy your 1200
    Yeah. Keep in mind that the side panel is fucked because I removed the screws but I have the screen and the plexiglass still if you want to refit it. That section is completely and easily reparable. The only other modification is the 4 holes for screws mounting the internal dual radiator.
    How much you offering?

  35. Post #35
    Gold Member
    FHamster's Avatar
    January 2008
    2,111 Posts
    I'd recommend getting a good power supply.

  36. Post #36
    Gold Member

    November 2008
    10,934 Posts
    Yeah. Keep in mind that the side panel is fucked because I removed the screws but I have the screen and the plexiglass still if you want to refit it. That section is completely and easily reparable. The only other modification is the 4 holes for screws mounting the internal dual radiator.
    How much you offering?
    did you lose the screws or something?

    Edited:

    $60

  37. Post #37
    I'd recommend getting a good power supply.
    1.2 Kilo watts isn't good enough these days huh?

    Edited:

    did you lose the screws or something?

    Edited:

    $60
    No. And lol at your price. I think I will just use it for scrap metal instead. The problem with the side is that the screws they provide cut into plastic and the thread is ruined if you try to tap it again. i.e. the screws no longer work. Thus, I need more plastic buttons to put in there.

    Holey cow. I took apart my computer and there is massive ammounts of dust. I guess that's what I get for having a rabbit and a case with no filters. It took me a whole can of dust off to clean the radiator.
    Shouldn't be any problems with just rinsing the water cooling components with distilled water right ( the inside)? I also blew a little into some of the tubing to get water out, does that contaminate the inside?

  38. Post #38
    Gold Member

    November 2008
    10,934 Posts
    well god damnit

    Edited:

    how low would you go

  39. Post #39
    150$
    msrp 200

  40. Post #40
    Gold Member

    November 2008
    10,934 Posts
    wow that's ridiculous. fuck that shit