1. Post #1
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    *** READ POST #26!!! DISREGARD EVERYTHING IN THIS FIRST POST BESIDES THIS!!! ***

    I already have a case, cd drive, DDR2 ram, hard drive with operating system, power cord, and ide ribbons. I also have 2 80mm fan slots and 1 80/120mm fan slot. Get me a video card, motherboard, cpu, psu, cpu cooler, a sata cable, fans, and keyboard. I would love to have a video card in the sub-$100 range, such as this. Also, be on the lookout for coupon deals and mail-in rebates. Take note that I live in America. Push this up to $300 only if ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY.

    Here's what I got so far:

    YYI1-DV6605 ::Cables To Go 7-pin 180° to 90° 1-Device Serial ATA Cable - Serial ATA cable - 7 pin Serial ATA - 7 pin Serial ATA - 6 in - 90 degree connector - red(0.01 lbs) - 1 x $1.99
    E145-0249 ::EVGA 512-P3-1141-TR GeForce GTS 250 Video Card - 512MB, DDR3, PCI-Express 2.0 (x16), 2x Dual-Link DVI-I, DirectX 10, Dual-Slot, SLI-Ready(1.75 lbs) - 1 x $39.99
    G125-0010 ::Gear Head KB2500U Windows Keyboard - 107 Key, USB, Black(1.5 lbs) - 1 x $8.99
    G54-41293 ::Power Up! T12025 120mm Case Fan - 4 Pin Connector 12VDC, 0.25A (OEM) (0.35 lbs) - 1 x $3.99
    G54-41278 ::PowerUp G54-41278 80mm Bulk Fan - 4 Pin Connector, OEM(2 lbs) - 2 x $0.99

  2. Post #2
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    5,575 Posts
    Save your money and wait until you have about 350-500.

    If your hardware you are using uses IDE you are severely limited. Also almost no new hardware works with DDR2, so even more limited. Also, those fans look awful and all use 4pin connectors. Most motherboards only have 1-2 4pin plugs and a few 3-pins.
    Most (read: 90%+) motherboards come with a SATA cable or two. You don't need to buy more.

    I would try to sell some of that hardware if you can and put it towards a totally new system.

    I'll throw together something that assumes you save the case, and that the hard drive and DVD Drive are SATA.

    (Also it will not have a GPU, cause that 250 you linked is a good price, and it's still a decent card.)
    Hard drives are spendy so i would hope yours is SATA and can be reused. DVD burners are $18-20 so it's not a huge extra cost.
    If your HDD is IDE, there are adapters but they are meh at best.

    Edited:


    Basic build.
    The CPU has a built in IGP that isn't horrible.

    You'd need a case, HDD, and DVD drive, the GPU can be skipped for the time being.

    Edited:

    http://puu.sh/hdgs
    More expensive example build.
    Still uses the GTS 250 and assumes you have SATA disk drives.
    The HAF 912 is a good case, but there are nice ones that are a bit cheaper too. (I really like the NXZT Source 210 Elite which is $50, or $40 for the crappier aluminum/plastic version, there's also the Antec Three Hundred, among several others)

    $365 or so after shipping.

    Last minute thought: IDE adapters are about $15-25
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812200787 (Plugs into the drive itself, so you can plug it in via SATA)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16816124023 (Expansion card, allows you to plug in with just the IDE ribbon)
    http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 (Found another, this one is cheap cheap)

  3. Post #3
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    Alright, here's an update. Managed to get all this stuff for $179.66. Now I have a 400W PSU back at home but, here's the thing, it may be too low wattage for my other stuff. It's also very old, and therefore does not have SATA hookups. Now I could buy myself an IDE DVD drive, which would cost less, or a new PSU, which would cost more. Which should I do? And how good are these other parts?

    Mobo - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813157204
    GPU - http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...&sku=E145-0249
    CPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103911
    PSU - ???
    Fans - 2 x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150007

  4. Post #4
    Serve Chilled
    icedt's Avatar
    December 2010
    535 Posts
    stop buying fans!
    Also If you plan on playing games (anything worth playing at least) your going to need more money. I know that seems like a slap in the face now, but if you go through and buy these parts (very mediocre btw) you'll regret it when it comes time to update or you do get some extra cash and your stuck with your AM3 socket Mobo and cant do a whole lot with that. It is really worth the wait, with what you picked out now its tough to imagine you maxing out any game or getting decent FPS on any setting other than low-mid at best.

  5. Post #5
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    I could upgrade the CPU. How about that? And when I'm ready to upgrade my computer again, all I need to do is buy a new mobo, since this once only costs like 40-50 bucks. Also take note that I am upgrading from a 2010 $700 laptop, and am willing to suffer graphically a little, as I can't even PLAY Battlefield 3 on this thing. I hear PCI Express x16 1.0 will not bottleneck a GTS 250 either.

  6. Post #6
    Serve Chilled
    icedt's Avatar
    December 2010
    535 Posts
    The build you have now or what you linked at least is barley scraping by the minimum requirements for BF3.So playing it on all lowest settings would be your "little" graphic sacrifice.

  7. Post #7
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    You telling me a 250 is worthless? Because I am not a believer that only the latest and greatest can run games. My bro has a 260 and it still runs Skyrim at high, L4D2 past 60 fps, etc... He's got older parts, DDR2 ram, and a Core 2 Quad from at the most 2009-2010. Give me some proof. I don't like to spend more money than I need to. I could get a Phenom II X4. Would that help any?

  8. Post #8
    Delrainn's Avatar
    January 2012
    221 Posts
    Well anything's better than my pentium 4 emachine from 2002/2003
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  9. Post #9
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    Well anything's better than my pentium 4 emachine from 2002/2003
    Fun fact - The build I'm using parts from actually had a Pentium 4 inside. I threw most of that shit away. You can't even sell it.

  10. Post #10
    Serve Chilled
    icedt's Avatar
    December 2010
    535 Posts
    You telling me a 250 is worthless? Because I am not a believer that only the latest and greatest can run games. My bro has a 260 and it still runs Skyrim at high, L4D2 past 60 fps, etc... He's got older parts, DDR2 ram, and a Core 2 Quad from at the most 2009-2010. Give me some proof. I don't like to spend more money than I need to. I could get a Phenom II X4. Would that help any?
    Of course it will help, and there is a pretty significant difference in performance between a 250 and a 260.

  11. Post #11
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    Of course it will help, and there is a pretty significant difference in performance between a 250 and a 260.
    http://www.hwcompare.com/1766/geforc...force-gtx-260/

    Anything else you can get for $39.99 doesn't even compare. The card is staying. So with that in mind, what else should I do?

  12. Post #12
    Serve Chilled
    icedt's Avatar
    December 2010
    535 Posts
    http://www.hwcompare.com/1766/geforc...force-gtx-260/

    Anything else you can get for $39.99 doesn't even compare. The card is staying. So with that in mind, what else should I do?
    Get more money.
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  13. Post #13
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    5,575 Posts
    Get more money.
    The GTS 250 is a 9800GTX+ that uses less power and nothing more, and my 9800GTX+ is just fine, no it's not going to max out BF3 or Skyrim, but for $40 new you are not getting anything better. (unless you get a good deal on a secondhand card, but then longevity/reliability becomes an issue)

    Also, stop buying fans, cheap fans suck donkey dick and you don't need them as much as you might think you do.

    Get a PSU, the Antec NEO ECO 520 is your best bet IMO
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  14. Post #14
    Serve Chilled
    icedt's Avatar
    December 2010
    535 Posts
    Also, stop buying fans, cheap fans suck donkey dick and you don't need them as much as you might think you do.
    Thats what i said.

  15. Post #15
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    The GTS 250 is a 9800GTX+ that uses less power and nothing more, and my 9800GTX+ is just fine, no it's not going to max out BF3 or Skyrim, but for $40 new you are not getting anything better. (unless you get a good deal on a secondhand card, but then longevity/reliability becomes an issue)

    Also, stop buying fans, cheap fans suck donkey dick and you don't need them as much as you might think you do.

    Get a PSU, the Antec NEO ECO 520 is your best bet IMO
    How about a fan to blow air INTO the computer? The GTX 250 is a 140W card, so it may heat up a bit. Also the fan was rated 5 eggs on newegg, so it should at least be semi-decent. But if you really say so, maybe I don't need one. Now about the PSU. You sure you got the right wattage? Because the wattage scares me. Also that thing costs $60 dollars. Can you go cheaper? And do I still need to upgrade my CPU? Be back in like 30 minutes.

    Edited:

    Found a PSU with a decent rating, even compared to the Antec you suggsted. 485W. Want to know if it will work with all my parts. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...scrollFullInfo

    And I just realized my brother has a SATA hard drive he doesn't need.

  16. Post #16
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    5,575 Posts
    How about a fan to blow air INTO the computer? The GTX 250 is a 140W card, so it may heat up a bit. Also the fan was rated 5 eggs on newegg, so it should at least be semi-decent. But if you really say so, maybe I don't need one. Now about the PSU. You sure you got the right wattage? Because the wattage scares me. Also that thing costs $60 dollars. Can you go cheaper? And do I still need to upgrade my CPU? Be back in like 30 minutes.

    Edited:

    Found a PSU with a decent rating, even compared to the Antec you suggsted. 485W. Want to know if it will work with all my parts. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...scrollFullInfo

    And I just realized my brother has a SATA hard drive he doesn't need.
    No, it won't work. It doesn't have the EPS12V.

    Wattage isn't everything with a PSU, you really want to pay attention to how much of that wattage is on the 12v rails, and what kind of amperage it can supply because a vast majority of the power draw is using the 12v. Also the parts you picked, even with the GTS250, will be perfectly fine with that 520w Neo Eco. They also won't need more than their own fans and a case exhaust fan, the CPU is pretty shitty.

    I have a box for a ZOTAC GTS 250 and it says minimum 450w. These are merely VERY GENEROUS estimates.

    Looked closer at that hec PSU, it only delivers 15A on the 12v, where the neo eco delivers 40A. The zotac box recommends 24A

  17. Post #17
    Serve Chilled
    icedt's Avatar
    December 2010
    535 Posts
    Also cheaping out on a PSU is arguably the worst thing you can do for your computer. Anything near $20 should just be labeled Time-bomb.

    Edit:
    Found this review on Newegg.

    Stay away from this PS
    Pros: Price. Nothing else.

    Cons: After a little more then six months of light use this thing fried and it took out my mother board and cpu with it. Now I'm down another $200 to replace the burned out parts. Thanks a lot hec.

    Other Thoughts: I have been building pc's for over a decade and this is the first time a power supply has taken down other parts with it. I normally go with CM or Corsair but was trying to save some money. Looks like the joke is on me.
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  18. Post #18
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    5,575 Posts
    Just ask Makol about fried PSUs, it took out his entire system save for the HDDs and SSD. Cheap/faulty PSUs will do that.
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  19. Post #19
    Serve Chilled
    icedt's Avatar
    December 2010
    535 Posts
    Anything that isn't 80 plus certified i wouldn't go near.
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  20. Post #20
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    I'll just go ahead and get the Antec one then. This puts me at $233.75. Just to be clear, I have a SATA HDD, DDR2 RAM, SATA DVD drive, GTS 250, Athlon II X3 3.3GHz 95W with stock CPU cooler, and a motherboard, and the PSU will support all that?

    Last thing is the CPU. Should I get the Athlon, or a $99.99 Phenom and add another $20 for CPU cooling?

    By the way, I want to thank you guys for helping me out, even though I'm a bit stubborn. It's just that spending money depresses me a bit and I'm a cheapskate.

  21. Post #21
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    5,575 Posts
    That phenom is actually worse than the athlon you picked.

    If you want something a bit better i'll see what i can find

    edit: forgot to say yes, everything you have picked will work just fine with that PSU.

  22. Post #22
    Gold Member
    Kaabii's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,434 Posts
    Anything that isn't 80 plus certified i wouldn't go near.
    http://hardocp.com/article/2011/09/1...en_buying_psu/

    You should probably learn more about power supplies before forming an opinion like that.
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  23. Post #23
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    Replaced the mobo with this as part of a combo deal and got some DDR3 RAM. How's everything fit together now?
    I am up to $234.61, a dollar more than with the old mobo (and DDR2 RAM).

    Making this so we can do a positive check.

    Don't have:
    Mobo - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...scrollFullInfo
    CPU/stock fan - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103911
    RAM - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820103001
    GPU - http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...&sku=E145-0249
    PSU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371030

    Do have:
    HDD - 250 GB SATA
    Case - not important
    DVD - SATA

  24. Post #24
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    5,575 Posts
    I can't recommend biostar in any way shape or form, they've been nothing but faulty pieces of shit to me, 4 separate boards even.

    But newegg is usually pretty good about dead parts as long as you return it within 30 days or so. Any further than that and you have to deal with biostar's shitty taiwanese support

    Everything looks compatible to me

  25. Post #25
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    Don't buy Biostar, ever. Last board i got from them literally died the morning after the build. The other three all had separate issues like dead onboard audio, dead onboard LAN and blown caps.
    Been thinking of going for another mobo anyways.

  26. Post #26
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    Alright, new plan. I have decided to raise my budget to $600, with some flexibility. Now this doesn't mean squander it on high-priced parts because my last budget was $250. In the first place, I had to get a new monitor and operating system. Now this $600 budget INCLUDES the monitor and operating system. I will compose a list below as to what I must have, what I already have, and what parts I don't have. GPU is negotiable to a small degree.

    MUST HAVE:
    OS - http://www.discountmountainsoftware....eb.html?cmp=pg
    Monitor - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824236059
    GPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814125353

    ALREADY HAVE:
    Case - Mid-tower
    HDD - IDE or SATA
    DVD - SATA

    DON'T HAVE:
    CPU, PSU, RAM, Mobo

  27. Post #27
    Serve Chilled
    icedt's Avatar
    December 2010
    535 Posts
    Tbh, i would (and did) torrent the O.S. if you find a good copy it will still update and all that fun jazz. As for your new Graphics card, a much better choice. Now for the new parts.
    Cpu:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115090
    PSU:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817152035
    RAM:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231422
    MOBO:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813121508

    Now i went about 20 bucks over. Now again i didn't include the O.S. so, thats my two cents.

    (User was banned for this post ("Warez" - Terrenteller))
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  28. Post #28
    Kirbyguy22's Avatar
    May 2010
    261 Posts
    Get this W7 OEM version, it's cheaper ($99) than the retail box version.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16832116986

  29. Post #29
    Delrainn's Avatar
    January 2012
    221 Posts
    Get this W7 OEM version, it's cheaper ($99) than the retail box version.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16832116986
    There's a reason why the OEM version is cheaper, it'll bring you trouble.
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  30. Post #30
    Gold Member
    tratzzz's Avatar
    March 2010
    7,252 Posts
    How? It is just that it has the key.

    Only thing it limits you to is changing the motherboard or reinstalling windows and even that can be fixed by a little call.

  31. Post #31
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    Good suggestions, but I am against torrenting, and I believe that the full version is much less hassle. Here's what I came up with for $631.93, saving $90 dollars in mail-in rebates, promo codes, and combo deals. See if you can modify it any. Someone check the PSU for me too, as I can't really be asked to do so.

    RAM - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820103010
    Mobo - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813157241
    CPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115078
    PSU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboD...t=Combo.824505

  32. Post #32
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    5,575 Posts
    750W is a huge waste of money

  33. Post #33
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    750W is a huge waste of money
    Yea I'm well aware it's overkill but I'll only save 10-20 dollars if I get a lower wattage card since all of the deals. Would you still recommend the Antec?

  34. Post #34
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    5,575 Posts
    Yes, it's the best PSU i can find for the price that isn't shit/overkill/both


    $40 in rebates, the i3 has a $15 off promo code, and the monitor has $20 off promo code.

    With the codes, after shipping, it's $534.84, after rebates it's $494.84 (edit: with that copy of win7 it would come up to about the same price, but some places offer student discounts for windows, and if you can find one and qualify for it it can be much cheaper than $147)

    If you want USB 3.0 you will need an expansion card since H61 doesn't have it, the ASRock H67M board does have it and costs about as much as that h61 board + an expansion card

    double edit: You can still go for OEM windows, but beware. You can only 'legitimately' install it once, and you don't get tech support from MS. Meaning if you change too much hardware in the future it will panic. This is a situation where i believe using an activation crack/bypass is justified, since you already dropped $100 on it.

  35. Post #35
    Gold Member
    Kaabii's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,434 Posts
    If you want USB 3.0 you will need an expansion card since H61 doesn't have it, the ASRock H67M board does have it and costs about as much as that h61 board + an expansion card
    No current Intel chipset has USB 3.0. Manufacturers add it on themselves.
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  36. Post #36
    PLAY IT LOUD!!!
    K3inMitl3id's Avatar
    February 2010
    2,875 Posts
    Much thanks for the help my man. You certain it all works and it ain't gonna explode or fry right?

    Don't wanna SPOOK MY GUTS OFF!
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