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**Siminov** · 3rd February 2012

<3 My Volvo, shes getting an engine+trans swap soon.

**Dylan_94** · 3rd February 2012

I wish i had the funds to swap an engine/trans into my car. I don't know what i would get, my uneducated desire is a k20 of some variety. I would have to consult with an expert if i were to ever get serious about it.

**Tw34k** · 3rd February 2012

And why exactly of all engines would you wish for a K series?

MightyMax · 3rd February 2012

I want a fuel injected v8. carburetors are a pain in the ass with all the changes in weather here.

**Dylan_94** · 3rd February 2012

Tw34k posted:

And why exactly of all engines would you wish for a K series?

Because i've seen it done several times on my generation(more than any other engine), which leaves me to believe it would be a lot more manageable, and it's newer. And i moreso meant a k-series of some variety, not necessarily a k20.

**Angus513** · 3rd February 2012

The wheather was quite clear the other day so decided to give my car a clean

Then while it was clean, figured I would get some proper photos of it as I haven't taken any since I done it up

So took it down the marshes to get some good photos

And got it dirty again :(

Disco_Potato · 3rd February 2012

Dylan_94 posted:

Because i've seen it done several times on my generation, which leaves me to believe it would be a lot more manageable, and it's newer.

The K20 is overloaded with hype.

The beauty of 90-00 Honda motors were that they were mechanically simple and reliable, with a extremely capable EMS that can be tuned for next to nothing. Then you add massive aftermarket support and you have engine that can make big power reliably for cheap, something not normally possible for an import.
K-series engines are expensive, tuning capability is expensive, parts are expensive. Not to mention the fact that the engines have gotten unnecessarily complex in the name of emissions.

Im not sure exactly what engine is in your car, but I would rather have and F or H series than a K series.
You can take a lowly F22 put rods and pistons in it, turbocharge it, and make 500+ hp easily. All of which could be accomplished for less than it would cost just to put a stock K20 in your car.

**Dylan_94** · 3rd February 2012

I don't know man, i said it was an uneducated desire. I still like the idea of having an engine that is as current as my car (2004).

**Tw34k** · 3rd February 2012

Ninja'd

Well, sort of. I agree with D_P in the points made but I did also return to page one and notice your chassis was post 2000 leaving you with few "drop n drive" choices. Just realize the K-series is not the god of the honda world as it's recently been proclaimed. They have a few consistent issues often experienced. Do your research and do it well.

**Second-gear-of-mgear** · 3rd February 2012

Dylan_94 posted:

I don't know man, i said it was an uneducated desire. I still like the idea of having an engine that is as current as my car (2004).

I'm the same, I won't get or even drive a car if a mechanical part in it is older than the car itself.

Disco_Potato · 3rd February 2012

Dylan_94 posted:

I don't know man, i said it was an uneducated desire. I still like the idea of having an engine that is as current as my car (2004).

You dont have to put an older engine in it. Im saying that the engine you have or similar engines (that will bolt up) with some boost are more than capable of embarrassing a K20.

You have a 6th gen Accord, right? F23A?

Second-gear-of-mgear posted:

I'm the same, I won't get or even drive a car if a mechanical part in it is older than the car itself.

... why?

**Second-gear-of-mgear** · 3rd February 2012

It just feels wrong to me

**Dylan_94** · 3rd February 2012

Disco_Potato posted:

You dont have to put an older engine in it. Im saying that the engine you have or similar engines (that will bolt up) with some boost are more than capable of embarrassing a K20.

You have a 6th gen Accord, right? F23A?

... why?

7th gen civic d17a1. It's not about the build ability, and i don't think the k series is godly, it's just a modern engine that makes decent power and has some support for my em2. Stop trying to school me on honda.

**slayer3032** · 3rd February 2012

Disco_Potato posted:

The K20 is overloaded with hype.

The beauty of 90-00 Honda motors were that they were mechanically simple and reliable, with a extremely capable EMS that can be tuned for next to nothing. Then you add massive aftermarket support and you have engine that can make big power reliably for cheap, something not normally possible for an import.
K-series engines are expensive, tuning capability is expensive, parts are expensive. Not to mention the fact that the engines have gotten unnecessarily complex in the name of emissions.

Im not sure exactly what engine is in your car, but I would rather have and F or H series than a K series.
You can take a lowly F22 put rods and pistons in it, turbocharge it, and make 500+ hp easily. All of which could be accomplished for less than it would cost just to put a stock K20 in your car.

why no love for the b series?

Disco_Potato · 3rd February 2012

Dylan_94 posted:

7th gen civic d17a1. It's not about the build ability, and i don't think the k series is godly, it's just a modern engine that makes decent power and has some support for my em2. Stop trying to school me on honda.

Im not trying to "school" you. I glanced at your pic on the other page and thought it was an accord, so I guess Ill admit with a 7th gen a K swap is less ridiculous. Although one could argue that you shouldnt even bother with that chassis.

slayer3032 posted:

why no love for the b series?

B series is great, so are the Ds.
I thought he had an Accord, which is why I was talking about F/H.

**Ferosso** · 3rd February 2012

My VTi. It's stocked away for winter right now, so I currently drive an old Lancer.

My Honda Civic EK4 VTi by SebbePichard, on Flickr

bradley · 3rd February 2012

So much honda shit on this page

I'ma let you finish and all but

D SERIES IS THE BEST SERIES OF ALL TIME!

Can't wait to get a little bit of cash rolling so I can build another hella high comp D16 for my EF and get some charge piping for my EG.

And an EEPROM burner.

And a better soldering iron.

**Dylan_94** · 3rd February 2012

I've read some shit about the ecu in my car being able to 'learn' when you put new parts in/on the engine, and it will try and retune itself to factory horsepower/fuel economy. If that's true, it makes me want to get a new ecu before i do anything. That costs a fortune though :/

**Siminov** · 3rd February 2012

Dylan_94 posted:

I've read some shit about the ecu in my car being able to 'learn' when you put new parts in/on the engine, and it will try and retune itself to factory horsepower/fuel economy. If that's true, it makes me want to get a new ecu before i do anything. That costs a fortune though :/

I heard my ecu can "learn" as well, except it adapts to increased boost and intake.

Supposedly.

**Tw34k** · 3rd February 2012

NO, it can maybe make a few compensation changes to the fuel/spark offsets from things like IAT and Atmospheric pressures but it cannot TUNE itself

Disco_Potato · 3rd February 2012

I dont think it will "learn", but I believe by your year they ditched speed density for a mass airflow based EMS. This means that it can calculate the mass of incoming air and adjust fuel accordingly as opposed to useing a volumetric efficiency table to predict air mass. So it will compensate for modifications to some extent, basic bolt-ons are within it's range of adjustment.
But when it comes to more radical modifications like high compression of boost it will not. E able to compensate enough, so tuning is needed.

Normally you could use a patch harness with a chipped obd-I ecu, but since your car has coil packs and a crank trigger its not so simple. You're easiest option is probably k-pro which is way overpriced for what it is.
The best option would be switching to a good standalone like megasquirt III, AEM, or Adaptronic. The megasquirt would be cheap and very effective but you need to have a pretty decent understanding of automotive electronics.

ThermalArc · 3rd February 2012

MS2 are cheap as fuck (unassembled kit). And you can get it to be drivable enough to get to the dyno for a real tune very easily.
plus they do a metric shiton of functions

**Tw34k** · 3rd February 2012

Sadly ms2 would not be enough for a K series.

**Dylan_94** · 3rd February 2012

I can't stand having other things on my car key ring, am i the only one? Also, wet pedals.

**Llamaboy9** · 3rd February 2012

Sorority girls chalked my car

Guess I have an excuse to handwash it now.

**Second-gear-of-mgear** · 3rd February 2012

Bet they rubbed their vagina all over it.

Yup.

**.FLAP.JACK.DAN.** · 3rd February 2012

Llamaboy9 posted:

Sorority girls chalked my car

Guess I have an excuse to handwash it now.

What have they done to your license plate?

**Tw34k** · 3rd February 2012

Dylan_94 posted:

I can't stand having other things on my car key ring, am i the only one? Also, wet pedals.

Skateboard grip tape on the clutch/brake pedal solves this. I also cannot stand large key rings so I have multiple ones to avoid the high school janitor look.

Cavasar · 3rd February 2012

**Dr McNinja** · 3rd February 2012

Polar opposites.

**Second-gear-of-mgear** · 3rd February 2012

That's how I think it should be when owning multiple cars.

I don't see the point in having multiple cars that perform pretty much the same.

**Dylan_94** · 4th February 2012

Tw34k posted:

Skateboard grip tape on the clutch/brake pedal solves this. I also cannot stand large key rings so I have multiple ones to avoid the high school janitor look.

I might try that some time, i'm just afraid it would conflict with the way i use my clutch pedal. It's hard to let it out smoothly and accurately, because it is incredibly light (the lightest clutch i have ever felt, and that's what everyone says when i let them drive it), and doesn't really want to push your foot like most clutches. So what i do is push it all the way in, and then let the pedal slide up my shoe as i pivot my foot upwards off my heel(because having my heel on the floor lets me move it accurately). The clutch hits it's friction point and is pretty much all the way out at the top of that movement, then i just lift my foot off and put it on the foot rest.

Hopefully that makes sense, it's hard to describe it without just showing how i do it.

**Tw34k** · 4th February 2012

I think I understand and you may have to learn a new way of driving it, maybe put the tape over the rubber first to try it so you can undo it if you don't like it.

I removed the rubbers and did the tape trick on my civic as well as a few customer cars in the past and my original tape is still there many years later and working like a charm. Once you get used to it you wish every car had it.