1. Post #1281
    Taepodong-2's Avatar
    December 2009
    13,157 Posts
    If I decide to go ahead and make an IDF loadout should I get the tactical chef hat helmet cover, a normal helmet cover or no cover at all and write something like "born to kill" in Hebrew on the helmet?
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  2. Post #1282
    Year_of_Lurking's Avatar
    June 2009
    465 Posts
    What's a good grease for a gearbox?

    Edited:

    If I decide to go ahead and make an IDF loadout should I get the tactical chef hat helmet cover, a normal helmet cover or no cover at all and write something like "born to kill" in Hebrew on the helmet?
    I'd vote chef hat but you should probably just settle on a loadout and play.
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  3. Post #1283
    Taepodong-2's Avatar
    December 2009
    13,157 Posts
    I'd vote chef hat but you should probably just settle on a loadout and play.
    It's hard to do this because guns are so expensive in Canada and then I'd end up buying all this expensive gear from Russia or Israel or wherever to go with it and then it would really suck if the gun turned out to be a piece of shit because then I'd be out $600 and have $400 worth of gear that I can't use for anything other than looking cool. So now I'm more just trying to figure out what the most reliable gun I can't get is without getting something super tacticool. I'm thinking a VFC or G&P M4 might be the way to go.
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  4. Post #1284
    Shotgun Guru
    notrabies's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,141 Posts
    A Real Sword AK would be another top of the line choice.
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  5. Post #1285
    Year_of_Lurking's Avatar
    June 2009
    465 Posts
    Ya real sword's real high quality. If you go IDF, at least you have lots of ar options
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  6. Post #1286
    Taepodong-2's Avatar
    December 2009
    13,157 Posts
    A Real Sword AK would be another top of the line choice.
    If I get an AK I'd be going for a more modern variant. I don't want to do any loadouts that would fit with an AK-47/AKM. Besides, that's expensive as fuck up here.
    http://mach1airsoft.com/site/node/759

    Edited:

    Ya real sword's real high quality. If you go IDF, at least you have lots of ar options
    Yeah I could buy this G&P M4 and hope nobody bitches about it having Canadian trades while I'm doing an IDF loadout. I don't think people will though unless they're super operator no fun allowed milsim types.
    http://torontoairsoft.com/product.php?id_product=1310
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  7. Post #1287
    your all nerdes
    the_killer24's Avatar
    November 2007
    13,701 Posts
    t56-2????
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  8. Post #1288
    Taepodong-2's Avatar
    December 2009
    13,157 Posts
    Would still look incredibly dumb with modern Rossia gear.
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  9. Post #1289
    YEAH, AND?
    felix the cat's Avatar
    December 2010
    9,470 Posts
    What's a good grease for a gearbox?
    White lithium grease for gears and moving parts
    100% silicone grease for rubber seals/o-rings
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  10. Post #1290

    January 2012
    32 Posts
    -snip- Meant to ask for lubing tips not filling tips.
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  11. Post #1291
    YEAH, AND?
    felix the cat's Avatar
    December 2010
    9,470 Posts
    Take the mag out of the gun, turn it upside down, and fill it for however long it says to fill it in the manual.
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  12. Post #1292

    January 2012
    32 Posts
    Take the mag out of the gun, turn it upside down, and fill it for however long it says to fill it in the manual.
    I meant like magazine lubing tips and where I should put silicone oil and where not to put it. I meant to ask for lube tips not filling tips sorry.
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  13. Post #1293
    YEAH, AND?
    felix the cat's Avatar
    December 2010
    9,470 Posts
    You wanna put a couple drops into your propane where you screw on the adapter about every 10 or so mags, and also on the rubber buffer on top of the mag. You should also drop a little into the valve via the hole in the buffer on the top.

    And then on occasion you should completely take the mag down and grease all the seals with 100% silicone grease. (You don't have to do this unless you start getting leaks or vents, but it's good preventative maintenance)
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  14. Post #1294
    Year_of_Lurking's Avatar
    June 2009
    465 Posts
    White lithium grease for gears and moving parts
    100% silicone grease for rubber seals/o-rings
    Any white lithium grease for gears? or Is there something to avoid
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  15. Post #1295
    YEAH, AND?
    felix the cat's Avatar
    December 2010
    9,470 Posts
    As long as it's not the type that's in an aerosol can you should be fine
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  16. Post #1296
    Year_of_Lurking's Avatar
    June 2009
    465 Posts
    Ok thanks. Mostly trying to avoid shitty markup from airsoft shops.
    http://www.amazon.com/Plews-Lubrimat...780761&sr=8-13
    Something like this is good to go?
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  17. Post #1297
    Gold Member
    Stupideye's Avatar
    October 2006
    12,424 Posts
    If I get an AK I'd be going for a more modern variant. I don't want to do any loadouts that would fit with an AK-47/AKM. Besides, that's expensive as fuck up here.
    http://mach1airsoft.com/site/node/759
    you could get away with a akm, russians use them mostly for training but i've seen a few outside of that
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  18. Post #1298
    Taepodong-2's Avatar
    December 2009
    13,157 Posts
    you could get away with a akm, russians use them mostly for training but i've seen a few outside of that
    Yeah but I'm not making an MVD or buttfuck nowhere Siberian reserve infantry loadout if I do Rossia.
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  19. Post #1299
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    so while it seems like i know a lot, I know nothing compared to this team that hosts games every weekend. Went and had a talk with them after the game (fingerless gloves = frostbite, thought I would throw that in there. It hurts to type ;__;) and basically, leave KWA internals alone. Only replace the barrel and the spring if you need to change the fps. KWA doesn't like to be dicked with inside. (this is coming from a dude that has been playing airsoft almost 20 years, he's ALWAYS right)

    Also in other news my KWA g36 gearbox is cracked from dicking around with upgrades.
    BUT I did learn about THE BEST CYLINDERHEAD/PISTONHEAD evar.

    http://airsoftresearchsyndicate.com/...product_id=114

    now i need to find a new gearbox.
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  20. Post #1300
    Shotgun Guru
    notrabies's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,141 Posts
    Well you could always buy my KWA G36 stuff.
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  21. Post #1301
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    Well you could always buy my KWA G36 stuff.
    wait what?
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  22. Post #1302
    Shotgun Guru
    notrabies's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,141 Posts
    I'm selling all of my G36 parts for $250. I'll look for the original post and pictures, but basically, its a KWA G36 and I've got 4 stocks, 4 foregrips, 3 scope rails, all 3 outer barrel types, and an entire spare JG G36c (Basically nonfunctioning, works but it needs a lot of maintenance and a hop up unit). In short I've got all the parts needed to convert the gun into a G36, G36K, and G36c.
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  23. Post #1303
    your all nerdes
    the_killer24's Avatar
    November 2007
    13,701 Posts
    A friend of mine upgraded his SR10, failure after failure after failure until he dropped it and it cracked in two behind the d-ring
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  24. Post #1304
    PAST TENSE DIG
    deathmog's Avatar
    October 2007
    7,614 Posts
    so while it seems like i know a lot, I know nothing compared to this team that hosts games every weekend. Went and had a talk with them after the game (fingerless gloves = frostbite, thought I would throw that in there. It hurts to type ;__;) and basically, leave KWA internals alone. Only replace the barrel and the spring if you need to change the fps. KWA doesn't like to be dicked with inside. (this is coming from a dude that has been playing airsoft almost 20 years, he's ALWAYS right)

    Also in other news my KWA g36 gearbox is cracked from dicking around with upgrades.
    BUT I did learn about THE BEST CYLINDERHEAD/PISTONHEAD evar.

    http://airsoftresearchsyndicate.com/...product_id=114

    now i need to find a new gearbox.
    Ooooooooooooohohohohoooohohhohohhhooohooooooooh.
    How good is it all?
    Will it work in my KWA SR-7?
    Keep in mind, my KWA was NOT stock when I got it used, but my brothers' KWA M4A1 is stock and it has been GREAT with him for the last year+.
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  25. Post #1305
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    well you would need the version 2. the one i linked is for a version 3 gearbox.

    Edited:

    actually have you tested the compression with whatever parts you have right now?
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  26. Post #1306
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,760 Posts
    (this is coming from a dude that has been playing airsoft almost 20 years, he's ALWAYS right)
    Not that I disagree with him in this case (as I personally don't know either way), but I'd take all advice with a grain of salt, no matter how long someone's been playing. Just like with computers, information becomes outdated at a frightening pace, and advice based on personal experience ten years prior can be misleading or outright useless. I don't mean to be a dick or suggest that he knows nothing and you shouldn't listen to him, but that kind of experience doesn't make him automatically correct and I think you were at least justified in trying some upgrades. Just my $0.02.
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  27. Post #1307
    POOP DICKS
    Dark Descent's Avatar
    August 2008
    4,895 Posts
    Okay, opening,my gun tomorrow for the first time. I want to reshim it and regrease/lube everything.


    Pls teach basic maintenance
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  28. Post #1308
    Captain Armed Dildo, Master of Ratings
    cpt.armadillo's Avatar
    February 2011
    5,459 Posts
    I say just from what I hear, use a cleared table, and a well lit room so it's easier to find the inevitable flying spring.
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  29. Post #1309
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    Okay, opening,my gun tomorrow for the first time. I want to reshim it and regrease/lube everything.


    Pls teach basic maintenance
    http://www.mechbox.com/aegs

    Edited:

    oops their wobsite looks like it derped: http://www.youtube.com/user/Mechbox6mm/videos

    Edited:

    and it looks like their youtube channel is missing lots of their old videos
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  30. Post #1310
    POOP DICKS
    Dark Descent's Avatar
    August 2008
    4,895 Posts
    Also what's a good spring and hop-up rubber? I need it from airsoft atlanta so I get it this week.

    v3 gearbox, dboys aks-74u if that means anything. It chronoed today at 320 with .2 g and I need it a bit higher for field play. 380-90 fps
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  31. Post #1311
    PAST TENSE DIG
    deathmog's Avatar
    October 2007
    7,614 Posts
    well you would need the version 2. the one i linked is for a version 3 gearbox.

    Edited:

    actually have you tested the compression with whatever parts you have right now?
    I havent bought any, my piston head is shot.
    Currently, I'm buying a Bravo blue piston and a Systema alum. piston head w/ bearings, but if you found something better, I mean, why not? I haven't bought anything yet.
    My SR-7 still has stock cylinder head I think.

    I really appreciate the advice you're giving me
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  32. Post #1312
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    Well Delrin is a really cool material. I was talking to a dude a while ago about getting some Delrin pads made. I'll be buying the pistonhead and cylinder head on wednesday if you want to wait for my "review".

    Also for getting that perfect seal, clean out the cylinder real well.
    Get food grade silicone grease. I bought a tube at ACE hardware.
    Put about a half fingertip sized amount on the piston head o-ring. This should be the only part you lube.
    It should immediately stop moving as soon as the oring passes the air hole in the cylinder when you're covering up the nozzle. It should also do the same with the air nozzle on. If not put some lube in the air nozzle. If it still doesnt seal correctly get a different air nozzle. You could try putting teflon tape around the cylinder head nozzle but that seems like a good way to cause an obstruction.

    If you do all that and you're still having problems it might be a problem with the air nozzle and the hop up.

    Edited:

    Stay away from things like wd-40. They can ruin/dissolve some kinds of rubber/plastic.

    also the Delrin pads are susceptible to heat and chlorine. Even the small amount of chlorine that you find in drinking water can hurt them.
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  33. Post #1313
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,760 Posts
    Stay away from things like wd-40. They can ruin/dissolve some kinds of rubber/plastic.
    Quoting this because it can't be understated. WD-40 just eats rubber. O-rings, hop-up bucking, they all just dissolve when exposed to the stuff.
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  34. Post #1314
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    Also this is what happens when you have a prometheus ms120 spring slamming into the cylinder head without a proper pad.



    Notice how it actually broke the little bits that stick out to hold the cylinder head in place.
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  35. Post #1315
    PAST TENSE DIG
    deathmog's Avatar
    October 2007
    7,614 Posts
    Okay, I can wait for the review, and see how it does, think you might be able to compare it to the Systema piston head?
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  36. Post #1316
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    Well the systema piston head was great until it shredded the pad on the modify cylinder head.

    One bit of advice from the group was either go full systema or no systema. They seem to hate other parts. Otherwise, the seal was retardedly good, and it had ball bearings. The ball bearings dont let the piston head rotate, they're for the spring and they let if spin freely. The only part of the piston head that touches the cylinder is the o-ring, and that can slide around on it's own with the right lube

    ARS sells a plastic and an aluminum piston head, but with either you'd need to remove or shave the second to last tooth.

    It's a common cause to gearbox lockup that's not obvious. I'll open up my gearbox right now and show you what i mean.
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  37. Post #1317
    PAST TENSE DIG
    deathmog's Avatar
    October 2007
    7,614 Posts
    Hmmmm, in that case, i'll buy a Systema Piston head and a Gaurder Ventilation Piston Head and try them both out. My friend has the bravo piston and the gaurder head and his range is pretty good, so i'll jsut do both and test them out.
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  38. Post #1318
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    Oh well my piston comes with it already done so its time for your IMAGINATIONS.
    Now this is entirely dependent on the gear/piston/spring.
    This is how the gear normally engages the piston



    The very first gear tooth grabs the very last/first tooth on the piston.

    This is what happens if the gear comes back around too quickly or you have something keeping the piston from fully extending. Such as a big fat delrin pad.



    It grabs the second or third tooth. This doesnt seem like a problem until you look at what happens when it tries to pull the piston back:



    It can occasionally lock up right there on the spot, but that seems to be a little rarer, either way the cure for both problems is the same.
    If you cant tell, the gear cannot disengage from the piston when the piston is pulled back all the way. The piston will not slam forward because the anti reversal latch is holding it there.

    This is not the cause for all lockups, improper shimming is also a major cause.
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  39. Post #1319
    PAST TENSE DIG
    deathmog's Avatar
    October 2007
    7,614 Posts
    Ohhhh, I kinda get it, I would have never thought of that.
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  40. Post #1320
    Jat Goodwin's Avatar
    August 2008
    931 Posts
    BONUS MATERIAL ON THE SECOND DVD:



    if the last tooth of the gear does not mesh with the last tooth on the piston, you have a problem and need to remove teeth somewhere.

    Edited:

    i should add, that picture is how it's supposed to look.
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